University Heights




Bits and Bites: Steak and Injera

Friday, October 31st, 2008
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La Mesa steak lovers who like to schlep to Golden Hill to cook their own dinner at the popular Turf Supper Club will soon have Riviera Supper Club and Turquoise Lounge in their “hood”.  Turf Club and Starlite owner Tim Mays will open Riviera at 7777 University Avenue in La Mesa.  Turf Club will close within the month and move to the much larger space–look for a December opening.

From a Buzz correspondent comes her account of opening night a new place in University Heights:  “Muzita Bistro, that features the foods of Abyssinian Cuisine (Ethiopian / Eritean). is located on Park Blvd. across the street and a couple doors down from Bourbon Street.  Last night (10/30/08) was (soft) opening night.  This place is cozy, vibey, hip and busy.  The food was delicious.  Beer and wine.  Patio seating.  It’s owned by the Woldemichael family who hail from–where else–Ethiopia.  They are local business and property owners in University Heights and are excited to be adding their ethnic cuisine to UH’s growing and diverse dining options.  Remember, it’s opening week so go with the flow.  Say hi to Abel (a-BELL), don’t let the dreds fool you–he’s an accountant.”  Website not up yet.


Ritual Tavern in North Park

Saturday, January 5th, 2008
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If you’re looking for honest, solid food Ritual Tavern, only a few months old,  might be your place.  It’s on 30th Street, a few blocks north of Lincoln.  Buzz and pals made two visits to taste some of its small menu.  Not fancy, but homey with dishes made with mostly local, organic ingredients. You might call the place a neighborhood Slow Food eatery.  Owners Michael Flores and Staci Wilkens  (alums, along with chef Glenn Farrington, from The Linkery) strive for dishes made from sustainable and organic ingredients.  Niman Ranch provides their meats and Farrington makes his own catsup, mustard, pickles and slaw to avoid high-fructose corn syrup and other additives usually found in commercial brands.

A northern version of gumbo that adds carrots to the usual southern trio of onion, green pepper and celery is thickened with roux and the bites of spicy sausage, chicken and shrimp mix well in the bowl with organic wild rice.  It’s a zippy, hearty dish that is just terrific, as a dish, regardless of whether it can be called gumbo in the strictest sense.  A dish should be good on its own merits and this one is.  Farm-raised catfish and house-made chips are light and crunchy though the fish could have used a moment more in the fryer to give it a firmer texture.  A perfectly cooked medium-rare lamb sirloin flanked with fresh chard and potatoes du jour is the highest priced item on the menu ($19).  There’s a delectable bread pudding with homemade bourbon sauce and a seasonal fresh fruit (apple and pear one night) that hit the spot–albeit with an unexpected heavy crust.

An extensive list of beers and a small eclectic group of wines by the glass make good beverage choices.  You’ll find gluten-free dishes and the kitchen is willing to adjust a dish to meet your needs.  That said, it can impact the kitchen and service.  One night all went well, another time salad and entrees arrived together.  One could argue it’s food you’d make at home, simple and tasty, but why bother if you’ve got a neat little tavern nearby.     


Flatbread wraps

Monday, September 18th, 2006
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Tucked a half a block off El Cajon Boulevard on a quiet residential street, the popular Mama’s Bakery & Lebanese Deli features two unique things: a sajj (picture a large inverted wok) and made–while-you-watch cornmeal specked flatbread (a mix of whole wheat and white flour) that cooks on the sajj. Here you eat on a small unadorned patio, or as many do, take-out. You order at the tiny counter and your food is delivered from the window on the patio. The flatbread wraps include everything from fried eggplant to turkey and cheese. Baba ganoosh is heavy on tahini, so not my favorite. A spinach pie is the flatbread wrapped in a triangle with sautéed onions, spinach and ground sumac (a dark wine colored, slightly sour flavored spice) and the makanek wrap melds spicy Lebanese sausage, pickles, hummus, tomato and lettuce in the flatbread—both filling and satisfying. Prices range from $3.49 for the pies to $4.99 for many of the wraps. There are also plates of meats, stuffed grape leaves and falafels from $7.49. 4237 Alabama St., San Diego, 619-688-0717. Open daily from 10 a.m.

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