Out of Town


On Menus

Monday, August 29th, 2011
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Fellow writer Brandon Hernandez just posted an interesting piece that brings up some good points about menus and how they are written.  His issue:  Rather than list just the basic ingredients, he longs for a detailed explanation of each dish on the menu.  Brandon (he’s a pal) where’s your sense of adventure and excitement for an evening of good dining?  Risk adverse?  You’re probably not alone especially in San Diego where–as you note–”we’re still finding our way where cuisine is concerned”.

If, in fact, each dish read as you might wish, including ingredients and cooking technique, it would almost resemble a recipe and the menu would read like a book.  And consider that many ethnic restaurants don’t go deeply into specifics, but simply name a dish with a main ingredient (chicken quesadilla, sweet and sour pork, etc.).

Why not write the menu with just the main ingredients as many well-known restaurants do? Less is more in many places including Gramercy Tavern in New York or Scottsdale’s Posh where the diner is given a list of ingredients and asked to strike any that they wouldn’t want to eat.  Posh embodies improvisational cuisine at it’s very best (Buzz has eaten there twice) and shows what chef/owner Josh Hebert can do daily with seasonal ingredients.

Spago and Bouchon Bistro in Beverly Hills provide some idea of what to expect when you order.  Across the pond, the hotspot in Paris, Le Comptoir’s menu gives you the basics.  In San Francisco, the year-old Prospect writes a succinct menu with ingredients.  Here in San Diego, The Marine Room lists an expanded ingredient list while 1500 Ocean names just a few.

For many chefs writing the menu with few ingredients allows the kitchen latitude for presentation–sautéed snapper could be poached another night or Yukon potatoes could be mashed one night and steamed another.  Same ingredients, different preparation.  It’s up to the diner to let the server know about any allergies (if possible when making the reservation) and to ask the server about a particular dishIt’s not up to the diner to ask for a complete redo of a dish after it’s explained.

So on your next night out, take a chance with the chef, suspend imagining what a dish might be, ask a question or two if the ingredients sound intriguing, and may your taste buds tingle with an enlightened and inventive meal.

Sacramento Eats and HSN

Monday, March 21st, 2011
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Should you find yourself in Sacramento’s downtown area, be sure to try Red Lotus Kitchen & Bar for some of their well-presented, unique and seriously good dim sum on their dinner menu.  The fresh water eel and shrimp dumplings with cilantro and pistachio puree, tobiko and truffle oil ($8) might sound odd together but the flavors were subtle, yet flavorful and blended well for each luscious mouthful.  Two roughly 3 or 4 inch beef marrow bones split lengthwise, delicately spiced with five-spice powder, and roasted– unusual, rich and tasty ($11)–and six perfect shrimp dumplings (har gow) with house-made XO sauce ($7) easily stand high above run- of- the- mill har gow.  Family style portions are generous, service gracious and attentive, and you can sit and eat at the lively horseshoe shaped bar as well. 2718 J Street, Sacramento, 916-231-0961, open from 3pm.

Also downtown, at 11th and K Street, in the area known as Cathedral Square, Ambrosia Cafe & Catering does a fine job with breakfasts such as crème brulee french toast ($4.95) or grilled jambon & gruyere croissant ($4.50), lunches that include salads, house plates and panini, and desserts from owner and pastry chef, Patricia Murakami as well as Nicole Becker who now handles most of the desserts and pastries.  Open now for desserts after the theater or a long day jawing with politicians a few blocks away Thursday to Saturday from 7pm to midnight. 1030 K Street, Sacramento, 916-444-8129, Open 6:30am to 5pm Monday through Friday, Saturday and Sunday 8am to 3pm.

Night owls who love cooking and television shopping, note that the Home Shopping Network (HSN) will feature a weekend of cooking related items from world-renowned chefs, including Wolfgang Puck, Emeril Lagasse, Padma Lakshmi, Ken Hom and others.  Check out the schedule for HSN Cooks Spring Weekend Event presented by Bon Appétit on March 26-27.


1500 Ocean, Restaurant 1833, El Bizcocho and La Playa Bistro

Wednesday, March 9th, 2011
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On the move:  Ted Glennon leaves 1500 Ocean and Eno at the Hotel Del Coronado for  a new venture in Monterey, near Pebble Beach.   Coastal Luxury Management will soon open Restaurant 1833 in the building that originally housed Stokes Restaurant & Bar.  Glennon will direct the wine program.

Now that the news is finally out about El Bizcocho’s new executive chef, Nicolas Bour (he’s been in the post for a few months) the Rancho Bernardo Inn will likely re concept the long running  restaurant in the next few months for redesign and perhaps a name change to fit with Bour’s farm to table expertise.  In May, he’ll be in Kentucky for a major Derby fundraiser.

La Playa Bistro will open a cafe as Buzz noted back before they opened.  Owner Cindi Hoang said they expect to open the cafe late April or May.  Look for take-out sandwiches and other easy to-go items, including gelato, smoothies and more for the lunch crowd that doesn’t have time for a sit down meal.  Expect to see the crowded (and unsafe) intersection get a bit worse for noon time driving.

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