La Jolla


On Menus

Monday, August 29th, 2011
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Fellow writer Brandon Hernandez just posted an interesting piece that brings up some good points about menus and how they are written.  His issue:  Rather than list just the basic ingredients, he longs for a detailed explanation of each dish on the menu.  Brandon (he’s a pal) where’s your sense of adventure and excitement for an evening of good dining?  Risk adverse?  You’re probably not alone especially in San Diego where–as you note–”we’re still finding our way where cuisine is concerned”.

If, in fact, each dish read as you might wish, including ingredients and cooking technique, it would almost resemble a recipe and the menu would read like a book.  And consider that many ethnic restaurants don’t go deeply into specifics, but simply name a dish with a main ingredient (chicken quesadilla, sweet and sour pork, etc.).

Why not write the menu with just the main ingredients as many well-known restaurants do? Less is more in many places including Gramercy Tavern in New York or Scottsdale’s Posh where the diner is given a list of ingredients and asked to strike any that they wouldn’t want to eat.  Posh embodies improvisational cuisine at it’s very best (Buzz has eaten there twice) and shows what chef/owner Josh Hebert can do daily with seasonal ingredients.

Spago and Bouchon Bistro in Beverly Hills provide some idea of what to expect when you order.  Across the pond, the hotspot in Paris, Le Comptoir’s menu gives you the basics.  In San Francisco, the year-old Prospect writes a succinct menu with ingredients.  Here in San Diego, The Marine Room lists an expanded ingredient list while 1500 Ocean names just a few.

For many chefs writing the menu with few ingredients allows the kitchen latitude for presentation–sautéed snapper could be poached another night or Yukon potatoes could be mashed one night and steamed another.  Same ingredients, different preparation.  It’s up to the diner to let the server know about any allergies (if possible when making the reservation) and to ask the server about a particular dishIt’s not up to the diner to ask for a complete redo of a dish after it’s explained.

So on your next night out, take a chance with the chef, suspend imagining what a dish might be, ask a question or two if the ingredients sound intriguing, and may your taste buds tingle with an enlightened and inventive meal.

Lucky Peach, The Marine Room and The Grill at Torrey Pines

Thursday, July 21st, 2011
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There’s a new quarterly journal out that food lovers may want to read:  Lucky Peach features such writers (and some chefs) as Ruth Reichl, Peter Meehan, David Chang and others.  First issue looks at ramen.   Check it out.

The Marine Room isn’t just for special occasions, and even on an overcast day, it’s got a drop dead view of the Pacific Ocean spotted with  surfers, kayakers, boats and birds, not to mention people walking the beach.  Just yesterday Buzz popped in figuring it would be as gorgeous at the ocean as it was inland. It wasn’t, but it didn’t matter.  Watching the water and just relaxing during the restaurant’s 4pm to 6pm happy hour (appetizers and well drinks are just $7 each) makes the place a lovely respite from the hustle and bustle of city life.  If you swoon for avocados, you must try (and share) the delicately tempura battered  wedges of fresh avocado served with an ancho chile dip.  Simple, delicious and not greasy!

Check out their August listing of dinners and classes with über award-winning chefs, Bernard Guillas and Ron Oliver.  For sake lovers, Ichishima Sake is featured at a special dinner on August 3 for $95 excluding tax and tip.   2000 Spindrift Lane, La Jolla, (866) 644.2351 or 858-459-7222.

A  tasting dinner at The Grill at Torrey Pines Wednesday, July 27, will feature beer from Petaluma’s Lagunitas Brewing Company. Here’s the menu and the cost is $65 including food, wine and valet parking.  Reservations: 858-777-6645.

Red Velvet Closes and Marine Room’s Chefs Win Big

Saturday, June 4th, 2011
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It’s summer vacation so Buzz will take some time to play and tackle new projects while occasionally posting throughout the next few months.  Expect to see Buzz pushing beyond the San Diego boundaries to bring you food and travel news to inspire the wanderlust in all of us…from Los Angeles and New York to Paris and Prague (and beyond).   But first, news from San Diego:

Red Velvet Wine Bar in Little Italy closes tomorrow Saturday (as noted by a Keli Dailey tweet).  To answer Dailey’s question of “why”, Buzz talked with wine director Kyle Showen today to get the answer.  Bottom line:  Owner Wendy Segal wants time off and isn’t ready to recalibrate the staff as Kyle is moving to San Francisco where Katie Brookshire (opening wine director) now works.  Terrific chef Luke Johnson will be missed as will the very contemporary and grown-up spot for interesting wines and well-paired food.  We hope that Segal will not keep the place shuttered too long.

The Marine Room‘s dynamic duo Bernard Guillas (executive chef)  and Ron Oliver (chef de cuisine) nabbed two big awards at the IACP gala last night in Austin, Texas.  Their cookbook Flying Pans, Two Chefs, One World won the People’s Choice award along with best in the Chefs and Restaurants category (they beat chefs Rick Bayless and Michael Chiarello).  Congrats to Bernard and Ron.

 

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