Commentary

LIke it or not, our commentary is bound to get you talking about San Diego’s food scene.


The SD Union-Tribune Dishes Cosmopolitan Hotel & Restaurant

Sunday, November 14th, 2010
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Oh what a mess has been wrought with the Cosmopolitan Hotel & Restaurant, owner Joseph Melluso, chef Amy DiBiase and the Union-Tribune’s, Keli Dailey.  This is a sordid story about editors and a reporter looking to sensationalize a story with writing that gives all parties, most notably the readers, a bad taste and does not help the San Diego restaurant community.

For those of you who missed it, Buzz reported on November 5 that DiBiase (whom Buzz knows) had left Cosmopolitan.  Next came Dailey’s one-sided story (relying only on owner Joseph Melluso) that appeared online on November 10, then the next day, in edited form, printed in the Business section of the paper. Melluso said (among other things) that there were financial and creative issues that caused the split.  Missing in the story is any acknowledgement that he, as the owner, had anything to do with the problems.

As a seeming consequence of the many negative online comments about the U-T story, either Dailey or her editors must have thought it wise to connect and interview DiBiase, as the original Dailey “story” noted, “DiBiase could not be reached Wednesday evening for comment”.  When Dailey did catch up to DiBiase the “rest of the story” – that is, her side of it — can be found online (and so far not in print).

Why run a half-reported story?  And more important, it seems that lately the U-T has resorted to old-fashioned tabloid journalism to report on such restaurant matters.  Restaurants open and close, chefs come and go, and any major newspaper notes such things in just a few paragraphs.  But the U-T has recently evolved into gotcha journalism, with the snarky story about Roseville closing, then this mess.

Buzz checked to see if the paper ever ran anything when Jeff Thurston left the Cohn’s Prado where he had been for many, many years. Nothing. Why? By contrast, the recent change of chefs at the Manchester Grand Hyatt San Diego merits a mention in Dailey’s online column (which is at should be, a few sentences at best).

So what gives?  What purpose did Dailey’s story serve to the public, to the restaurant or to the chef or even to the owner?  No purpose at all except to harm the business and reputations of those involved.

Bon Appetit, SD Magazine and the U-T

Friday, October 29th, 2010
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Foodies that still get cooking magazines (Buzz loves Saveur among many), Bon Appetit just announced its new editor- in- chief, Adam Rapoport who is style editor at GQ.  One could expect a big change in design…some think the magazine is staid in its look.  It was redesigned in 2008 to the dismay of some Chowhound readers.

Kudos to Candice Woo who scored a food writing position at San Diego Magazine.  She’s reviewing restaurants and it’s nice to see a fresh voice for the magazine.

Which brings me to the unfortunate Union Tribune, aka U-T.  Whatever has happened to caring about food in this town?  Don’t expect to see it coming from the U-T.  People whose bylines were always there and who know food (Carolyn Dipping, Lori Weisberg, Peter Rowe, to name a few), have been relocated to writing about auto accidents, obituaries, and occasionally now a piece about a restaurant going bust.  When will the U-T care about its readers and the food scene here?  It seems management depends more on outside writers to fill the gap.  Sorry to say that the redesigned paper doesn’t inspire one to renew their subscription (that would be Buzz).  Sadly,  the U-T logo and design  look like something from a high school newspaper.

Dueling Baguettes: Con Pane vs. Charlie’s Best Bread

Sunday, September 19th, 2010
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There is bread and then there is artisan bread.   There’s the baguette that’s just a soft mass of melt-in-your mouth dough.  Then there’s the baguette with texture, flavor and a crust with some crunch.

Nothing irritates Buzz more than to want to support a Point Loma newcomer (that would be Charlie’s Best Bread) only to find that the new place  can’t come up with their own unique menu of breads and various  sandwiches.  How does Buzz know this?  Well, the new guy occupies the space that the artisan bakery Con Pane Rustic Breads & Cafe had for ten years.  Charlie’s moved in and instead of creating their own menu items, decided to see if they, their bread and some of their menu items could emulate those of  Con Pane. They do not.

Many of Charlie’s breads are baked someplace else, as they are bagged in plastic and ready to take (just as they are at the Hillcrest Farmers Market).  They do have muffins and breakfast items, roast beef, pastrami and veggie Cobb sandwiches, paninis and daily breads ( listed in exactly the same order as Con Pane). They use organic flour in some of their breads, and their prices can be higher on some items than the former tenant’s.   Buzz bought challah and have had their turkey Cobb…same ingredients  vastly different outcome.  You’ll also find already wrapped cinnamon rolls  with walnuts and raisins that for many don’t hold a candle to the light and flavorful ones at Con Pane  that are never pre-wrapped.

Buzz would like to see Charlie’s find their own identity.  There are a zillion sandwich combos, why not create your own?  And don’t try to fool the customers who recently came in thinking it was  Con Pane redone and ordered a turkey Cobb sandwich.  Expectations were high–but dashed-when they tasted the wannabe Cobb (roasted turkey breast, bacon, avocado, blue cheese, roasted roma tomatoes mayonnaise and romaine lettuce). When the customer found out that Con Pane moved to Historic Decatur and Dewey Roads in Liberty Station, they rushed down and happily enjoyed the original Cobb (roasted turkey breast,  applewood smoked bacon, fresh avocado, crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, house roasted roma tomatoes, mayonnaise and romaine lettuce).

Certainly it is a matter of taste as to which bakery you’ll make yours.  Charlie’s also has an unfortunate parking situation as many spaces around the building are marked for the bank and other tenants.  Buzz wants to see the new guy on the block succeed, though not as a copycat.  If, dear reader, you’re up to it, try your own taste test with breads from each place.  Buzz wants to hear from you.


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