Archive for May, 2009


Bits and Bites: Sadly Gone

Thursday, May 28th, 2009
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It may be the recession or just fate, but two barely year-old places closed: Mille Feuille Chocolates in Hillcrest and Mukashi in Bankers Hill. Covered in brown paper, the windows at Mille Feuille show only signs that say, “closed, owners relocating”.  The stylish euro-designed room featured fine French pastries but suffered dearly, I think, in a lousy location at Fifth and University where parking is never easy.  Mukashi had the best intentions with a good opening executive chef, only to fall, likely, for many reasons, including so-so service and the competition from Hane Sushi & Bar in the same block.

Up at El Bizcocho changes at the top with chef de cuisine Steven Rojas who left a few weeks ago for Los Angeles.  His molecular-based gastronomic approach to food might not have been the best fit for San Diego, even with a glowing review from Naomi Wise and a terrific explanation by Peter Rowe. Wise was prophetic in her review when she said that she feared the chef wouldn’t stay, all the good ones leave San Diego.  How true her words…we had expected to dine there this week.


Bits and Bites: A Medley

Sunday, May 24th, 2009
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Rancho Valencia recently became an Auberge Resort, one of a handful of prime and unique properties.  With new management also a new chef, C. Barclay Dodge who comes with twenty years of culinary experience from training at the California Culinary Academy to apprenticeships at E Bulli in Spain and Jean Georges and Daniel in New York.  He recently moved from Santa Fe where he was chef de cuisine at Terra, the restaurant at another Auberge property, Encantado Resort.  Beginning June 1, to celebrate the property’s  twentieth anniversary, Dodge will have a $19.89 three-course lunch Chef’s Inspiration menu.  Each day there will be a choice of a soup or an appetizer and only one entrée that will be the chef’s choice.  Some examples of Dodge’s “coastal ranch” cuisine: sardines grilled with argan oil and escabeche of summer carrots; chilled English pea soup with fromage blanc and chive blossoms; and Valencia orange-scented lamb shank with house cut noodles and Moroccan pickled carrots.  Buzz hasn’t tried it yet.   For reservations and information: 858-759-6216.

It’s finally official from the buzz that’s been brewing (and from the looks of the cleared tables, no cloths and no setups), Laurel Restaurant & Bar is reinventing its concept and we hope this time it will include a new name.  Possibly small plates, possibly Italian, and likely we will just have to wait and see what happens in the next few weeks when the redo should be done.

The Marine Room features a number of interesting events including a Monday night lobster dinner for $40 and the thrilling high tide dinners June 19 to 24.  The restaurant offers a Fathers Day dinner as well, and with executive chef Bernard Guillas at the helm, the food is always a treat.

New on Fifth Avenue at Laurel Street, Pizzicato a franchise operation that began in Portland, Oregon. There’s also an Encinitas location. They use fresh local ingredients when possible, and Italian Parmesan too.   Haven’t tried either….While we’re on the subject of pizza, Pizzeria Luigi in Golden Hill currently tops my list with its thinner, New York style crust and quality ingredients.  North Park’s Lefty’s Chicago Pizzeria features thicker crust and equally good toppings along with sandwiches, sausages and pasta and opens its second location mid-June in Mission Hills–on Goldfinch– in the former home of Phil’s BBQ.

Just in time for race season and Wimbleton and the US Open, The Grand Del Mar offers five new cocktails in their Lobby Lounge and The Clubhouse Grill from June 1 to September 7.  Cleverly named for tennis and racing terms (Moonball Pimms Caipirinhi and Bearing Out Breeze, among others) you’ve just got to go try them yourself–especially if you love rum, vodka, Pimm’s Cup and tropical juices–creatively mixed, though not all together.

Bits and Bites: A Melange

Thursday, May 14th, 2009
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Here’s a great summer camp for kids who love food:  Tender Greens has two five-day cooking classes geared for kids.  June 22 to 26 for ages 7 to 11 and July 27 to 31 for ages 12 to 16.  The classes will be held at the restaurant from 9 to 10:30 am and cost $75.  Kids will learn to make salads and dressings, pizza,  sandwiches and ice cream.  Classes will be taught by executive chef Pete Balistreri and pastry chef Susanna Brandenburg and after all that learning…lunch is included.  Space is limited, for information:  619-226-6254 and ask for Pete or Susanna.

The Better Half , rumors to the contrary, is very much in business.  Chef/owner John Kennedy has revamped the interior to a “Baroque, over the top” look  and tweaked the menu to a French New Orleans style bistro food.  Their wine list list now also includes full bottles and some older vintage wines that Kennedy has on his “Over Achievers” list.  The restaurant is closed Monday.  For more information:  619-543-9340.

We’re hearing Urban Solace will have an Encinitas location in a new shopping center that will house a Whole Foods.  More info soon.

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