Archive for March, 2009


Bits and Bites: Cooks Confab and Quarter Kitchen

Friday, March 27th, 2009
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Cooks Confab is San Diego’s answer to a gourmet dinner group, only its members are all well-known restaurant chefs. Members include Jeff Jackson, Nathan Coulon, Brian Malarkey, Brian Sinnott, Jack Fisher, Olivier Boiteau and for the moment, only one woman chef, Katie GrebowAmy DiBiase may soon join her on the roster. This week, eight members of the group presented a nine-course dinner with wines paired by Eno wine director, Ted Glennon. at 1500 Ocean that featured sustainable seafood.  Along with the seafood creations, the finale of Jack Fisher‘s light, lemony olive oil parfait with strawberry caviar and rhubarb (served not in a glass, but plated as a piece of cake) made me nearly lick the plate.

Stations for the reception featured five of the chefs and one was Brian Malarkey’s duo of oysters, with, shockingly “Santa Monica Farmers Market Strawberries” along with a Champagne mignonette.  A quick look at Malarkey’s contribution to the January truffle dinner included produce from specific farms north of Los Angeles.  Buzz does wonder why Malarkey doesn’t support the local farmers who grow produce nearer to Oceanaire.  The Confab’s next dinner is Meat on June 7 at Nine-Ten, hosted by chef Jason Knibb.

At a media dinner a few weeks ago,  Nathan Coulon unveiled his new menu for Quarter KItchen at Ivy Hotel. It’s a menu that encourages sharing and features “American favorites, seasoned with fresh ideas.” Coulon’s food is approachable, reflects his classical training and is at a realistic price point for these trying times.  His love of goat cheese was evident in the three starters he chose–roasted beet, avocado and creamy goat cheese ($12), spinach and prosciutto salad with fresh goat cheese ($11) and aged French coat cheese on a housemade brioche ($15).  There’s the cook-your-own on a hot stone Japanese Kobe beef–thin slices at $20 per ounce, minimum three ounce order.  Buzz doesn’t swoon over Kobe beef at any price, but Coulon’s prime Cabernet braised short ribs with mashed Yukon’s and a hint of star anise in the red wine reduction ($28) make for a worthy dish.   A simple grilled pork loin appeared with cauliflower gratin and sensational cumin braised apples and red cabbage ($27).  The kitchen and restaurant seem more at ease with Coulon’s steady hand than with his predessor, Damon Gordon.

Bits and Bites: Short Takes at Vela, Hane Sushi and Blind Lady

Friday, March 6th, 2009
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Down on the bay near the convention center, Vela, at the new Hilton San Diego Bayfront, conveys serenity in a warm and contemporary room with views of the bay and the docks of the Port’s Tenth Avenue Terminal.  Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, you just might see a Dole freighter unloading its cargo or the lights of Coronado while you dine.  The bar doesn’t have the view, but on a quiet Monday, Buzz was able to enjoy a taste pour ($5) of Barth sparkling wine from Germany along with an appetizer of butternut squash tortellini in sage butter (the pasta needed a minute or two more in the water) and a rich wild mushroom risotto ($18). Vela is a place where you can have a quiet meal and watch the world go by.  Best yet is their Vela Society for locals that includes complimentary valet parking while dining, seasonal discounts for large parties and much more–and membership is free.

Had a chance to try the new Hane Sushi on Fifth Avenue at Olive Street.  The room exudes simplicity…some may say they wish for something more on the blank wall behind the sushi chefs with only a floral arrangement at which to gaze.  Buzz loves the lack of visual candy and the contemporary design. There is a separate small bar area, and the sleek sushi bar doesn’t allow the diner to see the fish as most places do.  Sushi Ota devotees may find a favorite chef or two working here as Hane’s owners are part of the Ota clan.  If you’re in the mood, special sushi and sashimi dishes and a good selection of cold sakes go beyond standard fare found at other places…but don’t expect bargain prices for creativity, quality, freshness and gracious service. 2760 Fifth Ave., Bankers Hill, (619) 260-1411.

Blind Lady Ale House in Normal Heights seems to be a hit with the neighborhood, especially on a recent Sunday night.  The menu reflects simple pizzas, roughly 12 inches cut into six pieces.  It’s very casual; you order from a choice of 20 beers on tap in one line and pizzas in another line where you get a number so the pizza can be brought to you.  Plates, napkins and utensils are in the middle of the room and it’s up to you to set your table.  Pizzas are European in style with thin crusts and a lighter hand with toppings–though one with butternut squash and shitake mushrooms needed more zip. House-made sausage, chorizo and Fra Mani salami are main ingredients for three different pizzas, and vegan alternatives are available including one for pesto. Pizza prices range from $7 for marinara to $14 for the chorizo with chiles and fontina.  3416 Adams Ave., (619) 255-2491.  Dinner only from 5pm, closed Monday.

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