Smack in the middle of Hillcrest is Rannoosh. Not your homespun hole in the wall, like Mama’s in University Heights, this place is designed to give the feeling of being in an exotic place. Cleverly decorated with fabric on the ceiling and walls, it’s what I might imagine a Beirut cafe to look like. There are hookahs prominently displayed and should you need a smoke, you can do so with one on the patio.

The food: Hummus made from scratch is silky and light. The finely pureed, smoky flavored baba ganoosh is mostly eggplant with a hint of tahini (sesame paste) and is one of the best I’ve encountered outside of my kitchen. Tabbouleh is, as it should be, mostly green with parsley with a bit of bulgur wheat. Homemade beef and lamb spicy sausages about the size of baby cigars come with a bit of lettuce salad, are dense and tasty, perhaps an acquired taste as my dinner pal found them a bit dry. Hummus with diced lamb is simple—the crisp lamb bits chewy to counter the soft hummus. We loved the mjadara, a toothsome mix of spiced rice, lentils and sautéed onions with a yogurt side that is definitely comfort food as well as a popular Lenten dish in Lebanon. Skip dessert as the baklava was dry and uninteresting. Prices range from $5.95 for most appetizers to $7.95 for hummus with toppings and entrees from $9.95 to $21.95 for mixed grill of various kebabs. There are pita sandwiches from $4.95 to $8.95 and $14.95 for that hookah smoke. 3890 Fifth Avenue (at University), Hillcrest, 619-325-1360. Open daily from 11 a.m.

Tucked a half a block off El Cajon Boulevard on a quiet residential street, the popular Mama’s Bakery & Lebanese Deli features two unique things: a sajj (picture a large inverted wok) and made–while-you-watch cornmeal specked flatbread (a mix of whole wheat and white flour) that cooks on the sajj. Here you eat on a small unadorned patio, or as many do, take-out. You order at the tiny counter and your food is delivered from the window on the patio. The flatbread wraps include everything from fried eggplant to turkey and cheese. Baba ganoosh is heavy on tahini, so not my favorite. A spinach pie is the flatbread wrapped in a triangle with sautéed onions, spinach and ground sumac (a dark wine colored, slightly sour flavored spice) and the makanek wrap melds spicy Lebanese sausage, pickles, hummus, tomato and lettuce in the flatbread—both filling and satisfying. Prices range from $3.49 for the pies to $4.99 for many of the wraps. There are also plates of meats, stuffed grape leaves and falafels from $7.49. 4237 Alabama St., San Diego, 619-688-0717. Open daily from 10 a.m.

Buzz is saddened by the huge change at the Wine Bank, a downtown institution serving savvy wine affectionatos for 30 years. Recently sold, the new owner added an ATM machine at the front door, lots of steel institutional looking shelving, a huge liquor assortment on the first floor, knocked out walls and has the place looking and feeling like a BevMo store rather than the comfortable and well-stocked wine store it used to be. We miss the cases of wine everywhere and the homey feel along with expert wine advice by the knowledgeable staff. Expect to pay more for wine and tastings too. You may still see prior owner Mike Farres at his familiar entry perch and his nephew Brian will be around for a while, but the change is hard to take. 363 Fifth Avenue, Downtown, 619-234-7487.