Archive for August, 2006


Friday, August 25th, 2006
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Point Loma Seafoods, dockside in Point Loma (behind the Vagabond Motel) is the place for fresh fish and seafood. In this cash only casual place you’ll find retail cases with smoked fish, including albacore, salmon and local yellowtail, sushi made to order, live lobsters, shrimp, housemade tuna salad, oysters, mussels and an array of fresh fish.

The place loads up at lunch where the small menu features salads, fried combo plates and swell fish tacos. Two tacos, each wrapped in two corn tortillas, refried beans, fresh salsa on the side and a slightly vinegary white sauce, at $9.95, is a meal for two. A generous portion of lightly breaded Alaskan cod (though on my visit it was a tad dry) fills the tortillas, topped with crunchy green cabbage and a sprinkle of cheese. Sit outside, near the docked sport fishing boats, and eat with the gulls staring you down for a crumb. Cash only. 2805 Emerson St., Point Loma, 619-223-1109.

Midwest breakfasts come West

Friday, August 25th, 2006
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Downtown is Richard Walker’s Pancake House in the Pinnacle building on Front and Market Streets, next to the future Children’s Museum. This is the place for solid Midwest breakfasts and a few lunch items (they close at 2:30 p.m.). The restaurant seats 30 outside on Front Street, and another 50 inside a compact room. The contemporary design, high ceiling, wood trim and tall windows that face the street, give the place a comfortable open feeling. You’ll find a menu filled with omelets, waffles, flapjacks, as well as some more unusual griddle cakes of buckwheat, wheat germ or potato, German pancakes and more.

A substantial veggie omelet is light and fluffy. The eggs seal in the chopped tomatoes, sliced mushrooms and broccoli flowerets, all of which keep their shape and flavor by not being overcooked. The omelet is golden from a quick finish in the oven. Refreshingly, there’s a choice of cheese (Swiss, cheddar or jalapeno) that melds with, yet doesn’t overpower the vegetables. Even better is the choice of toast or pancakes, and in a pancake house, why not choose these? The three are light, flavorful and a happy respite from the usual potatoes found at many breakfast joints. There’s good Boyd coffee, though my coffee cup was empty each time before the refill, and service was efficient and cordial. Open daily from 6:30 a.m. 520 Front Street, San Diego, 619-231-7777, www.richardwalkers.com/san_diego.

The 3rd Corner Wine Shop and Bistro

Tuesday, August 22nd, 2006
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Ocean Beach is fast becoming a hip spot for food and wine. One of my favorites for both is The 3rd Corner Wine Shop and Bistro. Owner Ed Moore’s concept is unique: retail wine store, full bar and short bistro menu.

Cruise the store for a bottle, pay a $5 corkage fee and order a bite to eat with your wine. Unfinished bottles are corked and bagged for you to take home (in the trunk of your car, of course). Best of all, you can sip and nibble long after most places close as the kitchen is open until 1 a.m.

The small bistro menu is what it is. Nothing fancy, nothing costing more than $13—just basics like an artisan cheese plate, olive and paté samplers, a smoked salmon plate and a very good classic whole-leaf Caesar that includes white anchovies and homemade garlic croutons with bread from Point Loma’s Con Pane bakery. Substantial dishes include well-flavored and tender short ribs with mashed potatoes, a fresh fish of the day and spicy pasta with fresh tomatoes, mushrooms and pesto all balanced with a squeeze of lemon. It hit my spot on a chilly afternoon.

The prime-time weekend wait for a table can stretch to an hour or more because of limited patio, sofa and banquette seating, and no reservations are accepted. But the service is knowledgeable and attentive. I particularly love that wine is served in proper glasses similar to the Spiegelaus that you can buy there for $35 (six in a box). 2265 Bacon St., Ocean Beach, 619-223-2700. Open from 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m., closed Monday. www.the3rdcorner.com

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